gammons



4 Sheets-Sheet 1.

(No Model.)

-W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MAGHINE FOR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS.

Patented Sept. 1-, 1896.

(No Mom. 4 Sheets-Sheet 2. W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MAGHINE FOR SEWING SWEATBANDS INTO HATS.

.No. 566,858. Patentedfiept. 1, 1896.

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 W. P. GAMMONS,J1*.

MACHINE FQR SEWING SWEAT BANDS INTO HATS. .No. 566,858. Patented Sept.1, 18%

. 4 Sheets-Sheet 4v W. P. GAMMONS, Jr. MACHINE FOR SEWING SWEAT BANDSINTO HATS.

om A 0 7 N h (No Model.)

Patented Sept 1, 1896 Fqr 7 UNITED STATES PATENT rricn.

YVELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR, OF NEYV YORK, N. Y.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 566,858, datedSeptember 1, 1896.

%erial No. 541,538. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that LWELooME P. GAMMONS, Jr., a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at New York city, in the county of New York and Stateof New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inMachines for Sewing Sweat-Bands into Hats; and I do declare thefollowing to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention,such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains tomake and use the same.

My invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing sweat-bandsinto hats; and it has for one of its objects to provide such asewing-machine embodying a construction which in several features is animprovement upon the construction of machine disclosed in my LettersPatent No. 519,038, of May 1, 1894.

Another object of the invention is to provide a guide for the foldededge of a hat, the sweat-band, and the reed and reed-cloth adapted to beadjusted to permit of a ready interposition of the sweat-band and reedand reed-cloth and also adapted to press the sweat-band and reed-clothagainst the folded edge of the hat,- so as to hold them in properposition with respect to the same to receive the stitches and enablesaid stitches in one operation to connect the sweat-band and reed clothtogether and to the hat.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be fully understoodfrom the following description and claims when taken in connection withthe annexed drawings, in which-- Figure 1 is a perspective viewillustrating my improved machine with the hatholder omitted. Fig. 2 isan elevation of one side of the same with the hat-holder and a portionof its support in section. Fig. 3 is an inverted plan view of themachine with parts broken away and the hat-holder omitted. Fig. 4 is anenlarged vertical section taken in the plane indicated by the line 2: zof Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a detail horizontal section taken in the planeindicated by the line A A of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is an enlarged verticalsection illustrating a portion of the vertically-movable frame whichcarries the stitch-forming mechanism, a portion of the drive-shaft, andthe cam on the drive-shaft, which engages a log on the frame and isadapted to transmit vertical reciprocatory movement to the same. Fig. 7is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line 3 y of Fig.6. Fig. 8 is an enlarged perspective view of the guide for thesweat-band, the reed and reed-cloth, and the folded edge of the hat.Fig. 9 is an inverted plan view of the guide, and Fig. 10 is an enlargedtransverse section taken in the plane indicated by the line on or ofFig. 8.

In the said drawings similar letters designate corresponding parts inall the several views.

A indicates the base of the machine; B, the overhanging, fixed arm, andO the driveshaft, which is journaled in the arm B, as shown. Thisdrive-shaft C is provided with a disk D, having a peripheral cam-groovea, which engages the lug b, carried at the upper end of a lever E, asshown. The said lever E has its lower end extended through the base A ofthe machine and loosely connected to one end of the horizontal lever F,which is provided with a slot 0 for the adj ustable connection of thepitm an G. This pitman is connected at its forward end to a lever H,which carries a spring-pressed pawl I, engagin g with the ratchet-wheelJ, fixed on the shaft cl of the pinion e, (see Fig. 4,) and the saidpinion e meshes with the gear-wheel f on the shaft 9 of thehorizontallydisposed feedwheel K, which feed-wheel is designed to bemoved a slight distance through the medium of the mechanism justdescribed to feed the materials while the vertically-slidable frame isinits upper position, and at the beginning of the outward stroke of theneedle, so that the needle will take through the sweat-band, reed-cloth,and the folded edge of the hat to form the next stitch at the properdistance from the first stitch or passage of the needle through thesweat-band, reed-cloth, and hat. The feed-wheel K is provided with adepending peripheral flange K which is toothed, as shown. This flange Kenables the wheel Kto thoroughly cover the gear-wheels e f, so as toexclude dust and dirt therefrom and prevent the materials, thread, 650.,from being caught in said gear-wheels.

ICO

L indicates the clamping-wheel, carried by a lever L, which is fulcrumedupon the base A and is designed to be moved by the camlever M, so as tocarrythe wheel L away from the feed-wheel K to permit of theinterposition of materials between the same, the said clamping-wheel Lnormally pressing toward the feed-wheel K, or the materials between thetwo, by virtue of the spring-lever j, (see Fig. 3,) which is fulcrumedat It and bears at one end against a stud Z, depending from the lever L,and is engaged, at its opposite end by a screw L through the medium ofwhich the pressure against the lever L, and consequently that of thewheel L,against the wheel K, may be increased or diminished as desired.It will be noted that the spring-lever 3' simply bears against and isnot connected to the fulcrum 7o, stud Z, or screw L and it willtherefore be appreciated that said spring-lever may be readily placed inposition without the aid of any implement, and that it may be readilyremoved when desired by simply turning the screw L outwardly asufficient distance, and it will further be appreciated that by reasonof the peculiar construction just mentioned a flat piece of spring metalhaving no holes or indentations may be employed as the spring-lever j.

Mounted in suitable ways in the face of the overhanging or fixed arm Bis the vertically-slidable frame N, which is provided on its inner sidewith a pin carrying an antifriction-roller, designed to move in thecamgroove m of the wheel or disk P upon the f irward end of thedrive-shaft 0, whereby it will be seen that at each rotation of the saidr/haft the frame N and its appurtenances will be lowered and raised,such movement of the frame being properly timed with respect to themovements of the other parts, as will be psesently pointed out.

J ournaled in brackets n, extending forwardly from the movable frame N,is a rockshaft 1), upon one end of which is fixed the swinging arm Q ofthe reciprocatory needle R.

Fixed at a suitable point upon the driveshaft 0 is a beveled gear-wheelg, which meshes with the pinion 9" upon a short shaft which extendsthrough the Wall of the arm B and carries a disk 3 at its outer end, towhich is connected one end of a pitm an t, which pitman is connected atits forward end toa crankarm S, fixed upon the end of the shaft 19opposite to that to which the arm Q is connected, whereby it will beseen that when the driveshaft is rotated the needle R will bereciprocated. The crank-arm S is provided at its upper end with anapproximately T-shaped head T, in which is formed a cam-slot M, designedto impart a vertical reciprocatory movement to a rack-bar U, whichrack-bar meshes with a pinion o upon one end of the shaft to of theloop-taker V, which shaft is 1 bar U is given an upward movement andthrough the medium of the pinion on the looptaker shaft gives said shafta slight rocking motion, so as to vibrate the loop-taker and raise itspoint to a plane above the path of the needle. Upon the down ward strokeof the rack-bar U and during the receding stroke of the needle theloop-taker will rock inwardly to take the thread bight or loop from theneedle, and upon the succeeding upper stroke of the rack-bar theloop-taker will rock outwardly or in a reverse direction into itsposition above the path of the needle ready to rock inward to shed itsfirst loop and take another loop from the needle, as will be hereinafter more clearly pointed out. The mechanism thus far described is sotimed that when the vertically-slidable'frame-N is moving up or down thelug of the rack-bar U is at the forward end of the cam-slot u of thecrank-arm S, which is shaped as shown, by reason of which the crank-armS will have an ineffective or lost motion and the rack-bar U andneedlearm Q will be held stationary with respect to the slidable frame Nduring the greater part of the upward and downward movements of saidframe. Although the rack-bar U and the loop-taker V, together with theneedle-arm Q, do not move materially during the movements of the frameN, yet when said frame is in its lower position the said parts will bethrown into action and the needle will take through the materials (whichare supported and guided as presently described) and the looptaker willtake a loop from the needle; and after the slidable frame has attainedits upper position the needle and loop-taker will again be thrown intoaction and the needle will pass over the material, and the loop-takerwill shed its first loop and take another loop from the needle and willdraw it through the first loop or the loop that it has just shed; or, inother words, a stitch will be formed while the frame N is in its lowerposition and another stitch will be formed when the said frame is in itsupper position, the first stitch being through the materials and thenext stitch over the same.

In order to properly support the hat when the same is clamped betweenthe wheel L and the feed-wheel K, I have provided the hanger WV,which issuitably connected to the forward end of the base A, as better shown inFig. 2 of the drawings. This hanger is provided with a vertical slot a,and in said slot is arranged the vertically-movable support A, which isprovided with a threaded socket b for the reception of theadjustingscrew 0, which takes loosely through the lower end d of thehanger and is provided above and below said lower 'end with meansadapted to hold it against endwise movement, so as to enable it whenturned to raise or lower the support A, for a purpose presentlydescribed. The support A has suitable lugs 6 upon its upper side for theconnection of the lever B, and the said lever, which has the rotaryplatform C at its forward end to support the hat-holder D, has its rearand lower end arranged upon a spring E, whereby it will be seen thatwhen a hat is properly arranged in the holder D and the support A isproperly adjusted the folded edge of the said hat will be yieldinglypressed upwardly in the guide (presently described) and will thereforebe moved and held by the feed and clamping wheel in a proper position toreceive the stitches.

Suitably connected to and extending upwardly from the base A of themachine, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, are brackets F,which have slots in their vertical portions f, and also have their outerhorizon tal port-ions g notched, as illustrated. These brackets F aredesigned for the connection of the body G of the guide H, and suchconnection is effected by the screws h on the upper side of the body,which take into the notches in the portions g of the brackets, and thescrews '6, which take through the slots in the portions f of thebrackets and into the body G, and it will therefore be seen that thebody may be readily connected to and disconnected from the brackets whendesired. The said body G of the material-guide is provided in its underside with a groove or way I, (see Figs. 9 and 10,) which is designed toreceive and guide the folded edge of the hat, and is therefore curvedslightly to conform to the curvature of the hat-holder D, and isprovided adjacentto its forward wall m with a comparatively deep channeln to receive the edge of the hat on the holder 1), as illustrated inFig. 10. The forward wall m of the groove 1 is broken away at aconsiderable distance from the notch or opening J through which theneedle passes, in order to enable the lever K, in which the sweatbandand reed and reed-cloth ways or grooves L M are formed, to extend intothe said notch or opening J, so as to properly guide the sweat-band andreed-cloth with respect to the folded edge of the hat.

The way or groove M of the lever, which is designed, as stated, to guidethe reed and reed-cloth, is deeper than the way or groove L for thesweat-band, as shown in Fig. 10, in order to hold the reed and the clothsurrounding the same above the upper edge of the sweat-band, so thatthey may be connected to the hat in such positions, and the walls r s ofthe said ways or grooves are shorter than the outer wall '15 of thegroove L in order to enable the lever, which is pivotally connected tothe guide-body G, and has its rear end pressed outwardly by the springN, to press the reed-cloth and sweatband against the folded edge of thehat, so as to securely hold the same in proper position with respect toeach other while they are being stitched together. The lever K is furthermore advantageous inasmuch as by pressing its rear end toward theguide-body its forward end or portion, in which the grooves L H areformed, may be moved away from the guide-body, so as to permit of aready interposition of the sweat-band and the reed and reed-cloth insaid grooves.

As better shown in Fig. 9 of the drawings, an additional guide for thereed and reedcloth is formed at the forward end of the lever K by thewall 25 and a short wall a in order to hold the reed and reed-cloth inproper position at the point where the cloth is stitched to thesweat-band and the folded edge of the hat.

In using my improved machine the crown of the hat to be sewed is placedin the holder D, and its brim is bent over the edge of the same. Thesupport A is then raised by manipulating the screw 0, so as to enablethe spring E to yieldingly press and hold the folded edge of the hat inthe way or groove 1 of the guide. The rear end of the lever K is then{pressed toward the guide-body, when the sweat-band and the reed andreedcloth maybe readilyinterposed in the grooves or ways L M, and whenthe lever is released they will be firmly pressed by the action of thespring N, so as to securely hold them in proper position with respect tothe folded edge of the hat. When the materials have been properly placedin the guide, as before stated, the cam-lever M is manipulated, so as toenable the lever-springj, by acting on the lever L, to press theclamping-wheel L against the feed-wheel K, when the machine is ready tobe operated, as before described.

When my improved machine is used to sew sweat-bands into hats withoutconnecting a reed and reed-cloth thereto, a guide embodying myinvention, but having only one groove or way in the lever K, should beemployed.

Having described my invention, what I claim is 1. A guide for hat'sewingmachines comprising a body provided with a way for receiving and guidingthe folded edge of a hat, a lever fulcrumed at an intermediate point ofits length on the body and having a way in its forward portion forreceiving and guiding a sweat-band; said way extending in the directionof the length of the lever, and a spring interposed between the body andthe rear portion of the lever, substantially as specified.

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a material-guide, a hanger, amovable support adjustably connected with the hanger so that it may befixed at various distances from the guide, a lever fulcrumed on saidsupport, a spring backing said lever, a rotary platform mounted on thelever, and a hat-holder mounted on said platform, substantially asspecified.

3. A guide for hat-sewing machines comprising a body having a way in itsunder side for receiving and guiding the folded edge of a hat, and a,lever fulornmed at an intermeand the rear portion of said lever,substandiate point in its length upon the front side tially asspecified. 10 of the body and having a, way in the under In testimonywhereof I affix my signature side of its forward portion for receivingand in presence of two Witnesses.

5 guiding a sweat-band and also having a, Way WELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR.

in the under side of its forward portion for 'Witnesses: receiving andguiding a reed and reed-cloth, LOUIS LEWINSOHN,

and a spring interposed between the body BRUNO W. PORTZSCH.

